Friday

A Defect with the Minivan..

It's like that feeling you get when you're in a minivan at 5:00am and you naturally fall asleep but then are woken up by the driver yelling at you that there's a defect in the van and you have to ride in the back of a work truck with goats, one other foreigner and a few albanians the rest of the way to the lake and then when you do get there that driver charges you 200L more than the other guy said he would and but he's no where to be found.

That's how my Monday morning started this week and it's pretty much been the defining moment of this entire week. I think the all ever luminous trip to Amerik in 3 weeks has been on my mind constantly for about 2 months now and I'm ready for it to hurry up and get here. I've also got about 5 different projects going on now, some of which need to be finished before I do go home. But this is my favorite time of the year, no matter where I am in the world.

Monday

Luaj per Paqen, Soccer Tournament for Peace..

First Albanian Female Soccer Ref! The one without sunglasses..










Wednesday

The After (Dinner) Party...

Made for a pretty good night!.. Valbona trout and pizza!
He was quite the dancer!
The Mayor of Bajram Curri, his wife and the governor of Kukes..
Oooo Genti..

Montenegrin Folk Performance..

Montenegrin traditional musical instruments..



Tuesday

What are you running from?

For the past 12 years of my life I've identified myself as a student-athlete. At least 3-4 hours of my day was dedicated to working out or having basketball practice. I knew when I graduated college and didn't have that aspect of my life anymore it was going to be a little difficult at first but I started volunteering as a coach at the YMCA and playing rec league games with people my age to fill the void.

I remember during my phone interview with the Peace Corps the interviewer asked me "what sort of hobbies will you have a site that are not only mentally but physically stimulating." Of course my answer was something to the effect of "I'd just go on a run or take a walk." She quickly responded with "what if it's taboo for women to exercise in public or be alone at all in public." Stunned, I made up some diplomatic answer and somehow dodged the answer.

There is a paved road on the way from Bajram Curri to Valbona, about 2.5 kilometers long that is perfect for running or taking a nice walk. I think last summer we deemed it the "running road" and that's what it's been called ever since. After running 2-3 times a week during the spring and summer seasons I've configured a almost full proof plan of avoiding the main traffic from the morning, afternoon and evening hours. From the hours of 2-6pm is what we like to call 'pushime hours' or for the more Spanish friendly person, siesta. I remember when living in Mexico the cities and towns would literally become empty, stores would close and you better not need anything during those hours. It's similar to that here and I think in a lot of countries.

Anyways, the perfect time to go running is from 3:00-4:00pm. This gives you minimal traffic from the villagers commuting in and out of town, therefor lowers your percentages of questionable looks and stopping and talking to explain exactly why you're running. "What are you running from?" "Are you OK?" "Are you tired?" "Come help me with work, then you'll be tired." "Where are you going," are questions, all from each person you pass. Then some people just stare. I used to prefer that, instead of the questioning. But now, I just ask them how they're doing and state that I'm tired and you can see their face go from this questioning, lost look to pure happiness that I've acknowledged them and their curiosity.

Last year it would make me really self conscious and almost made me not want to go at all.. But that's before I found this fool proof formula. And I don't blame them for being curious. I then imagine how many people would stare in America if someone in traditional Albanian dress was just walking down the street. I also think it goes back to the collectivist society, which Albania is, compared to the individualist society that America is the epitome of. Everyone wants to be in the know at all times about what everyone else is doing. It can be mistaken as being nosey but it's just a general concern about the other person, in most cases, but some cases it is just being nosey.

Every Donor is a Hero..

One day last week I walked into work just like any other day; having no idea what to expect. I pass an ambulance parked beside of the Bashkia, didn't think anything about it, and proceeded to the third floor where my office is. Everyone was gathered outside of the conference room so of course I walk up to see what all the fuss is about. The Red Cross from Tirana was in Tropoje that day to gather blood donations as a part of their initiative of helping the children's hospital in the capital.

This put my office in an uproar. Everyone came up with a reason why they couldn't donate blood, some legitimate, others obviously were just scared of needles. I had heard other Volunteers stories of donating blood, mostly health Volunteers, saying they were the only ones that donated all day, etc. One of my coworkers thought it would be funny to push me to the front to go first, little did he know I was about to surprise them all be actually being willing and excited about donating blood.

This was my ploy to try and convence others to do it with me as well. I told them I had given blood in America before (not true) and that it's really not a big deal at all, they could even watch me! After the paper work was filled out, and really impressing the nurses that I could read Albanian, the next thing I know I'm laying on a cot in the office, draining blood with about 10 of my coworkers watching. Unfortunately none of them decided it was in their best interest to follow suite but at least I tried. The nurses were very professional, clean and excited to have any donors. They told me to rest, not to do any physical activity all day, gave me a sweet cake and pear juice and I even got a T-shirt. They have quite a brilliant marketing plan in my opinion, saying "every donor is a hero." The idea of donating blood is still a little outlandish here though. Avash avash.

Thursday

Old Albanian Lek Earrings..

My mom sent these to me in a package. They're made out of Old Albanian Lek that
was used during Communism and is virtually impossible to find here. They've been
all the rave around town and people are fascinated about
how an American found this Communist money.

Monday

4 o'clock traffic control..

Everyday, at the same time, this cow dares any vehicle to pass..

Beer tastings & Bunkerfest..

After spending three weeks in Bajram Curri, I got a little stir crazy. There is a very popular hike from Valbona to Theth through the Albanian Alps. In order to do this hike you must spend one night in Bajram Curri then take a furgon to Valbona and begin your 4-9 hour journey by foot. Both summer's I've been here we've had a 20+ group of PCV's come up for the hike. I say 4-9 hours because Garrett and I went last summer and it took 4 hours, it took the last group of 20 almost 9 hours.

This year we had lots of little groups as well, three of which came last week. People around town starting asking me and Garrett if we were running and tourist agency because were always with different foreigners. For some Volunteers, coming to Bajram Curri is like a novelty trip, because it was closed off to Peace Corps Volunteers until we came up here. I've heard crazy rumors from other Volunteers, like I have to walk around with a body guard being a single woman (Garrett and Eric like to argue over which one of them it is) or that American's got shot here last time there were any here.

Obviously, these are all untrue but for some reason people come here with high expectations of it basically being horrible. We are the most northern Peace Corps site in Albania and one of the most isolated, but we're just another town (although a little more conservative and with a crazy dialect), which I think people realize when they get here. But, having guests is always a little stressful, being on a water schedule, not having a refrigerator, feeding people. You know basic things that a good host would worry about.

We held a blind beer tasting with all beers Albanian to see if it would be worth it to pay that extra 20 cents for a beer that in our mind was better because it was a little more expensive but probably just tasted the same. Our study proved us to be right in that most of the beers all taste the same, do not have an aroma, lack on mouth fullness and basically taste like pennies.

Anyways, this led me to wanting to get out of town for a bit, which meant going to the capital, a 6 hour bus ride for Bunkerfest, a music festival in a village outside of Tirana. Bunkers are scattered throughout Albania, left over from communism. The dictator was paranoid that Albania would be invaded and held mandatory work building and manning these bunkers. Now a lot of them are being destroyed and the iron is being sold.

The festival offered free transportation from the mosque in the center of Tirana starting at 7:00pm so I didn't feel any pressure rushing into town and waiting around. I took the 1:30 furgon out of BC and arrived just as the first bus was loading. Unfortunatley we didn't get on it and had to wait around for the next one. Naturally, this one came around 9:00 (the 8:00 one) with a flat tire. Once that was taken care off we took a 45 minute ride to the outskirts of Tirana to a field, full of bunkers and loud music and strobe lights coming from inside the woods. It was a great night full of fun, except the next morning when I woke up and had to get back on a furgon to BC.

School started back today and summer is officially over.